Thursday, August 26, 2010

First week (8/2 - 8/8)

Eating Out

On Monday, 8/2 Jackie and I head out to lunch with Amos and Kristine, John and Maggie, Justin and Holly, Douglas, Kelly, Nate, and Naima. None of us speaks Chinese. The gatehouse guard is nice enough to escort us down the street to a restaurant close by that he recommends. The proprietors usher us to a room upstairs big enough to accommodate all of us. We sit down and the fun begins. We can’t read the menu. The waitress can’t speak English. She goes for help. We dig into our bags for our dictionaries (three eventually get produced). The waitress returns with one, then two, other waitresses. Some of us are vegetarians. How do you say that in Chinese? Some of us don’t eat pork. How do we know if a dish has pork or not? As the process of ordering food drags on, some of the Americans groan in frustration while the doorway to the room fills with restaurant workers until we peak at six staffers present. It seems everyone at work today wants to watch the drama unfold. Someone brings a case of beer and eventually lunch is ordered. What arrives is not exactly what people expected, but most of it is very tasty and gets eaten. We finish the beer of course.

Other dining out experiences are similar. In nearly every one the Chinese restaurant staff try to be very helpful and usually enlist the support of as many co-workers as possible. Some places have pictures on the wall or on their menus. We like that. At least the pictures give us an idea of what we’re ordering.As often as not, though, the plate delivered is significantly different from the one illustrated. Jackie and I find group size affects the eating out process hugely. When we go by ourselves we can usually muddle through successfully. Anything over six or so people makes the whole thing a lot more complicated.

On 8/5 we meet the Canadians Jessica and Colin and their two little children. Colin works at a school nearby. Jessica has learned Chinese and translated the menus of two local restaurants. The “red pillar” restaurant becomes a favorite of many of the SPA American staff. Jessica said that they have dog meat on the menu, but no one has discovered it yet. The other restaurant specializes in noodles. They have yaks on their outside (right-hand side of the sign, below) and inside signs. No one has figured out why that is and Jessica and Colin are on vacation in Shanghai so we can’t ask them. My guess is that the restauranteurs have some Mongolian connection. To add to the confusion over this place, my school colleagues call this the "Muslim place". Why? I don't know.

Once Jackie and I decided to try the Korean bbq that some others have raved about. When we got there a young man who did not speak English but had some French-speaking ability served us. With that we were able to get “legumes” and “champignons” and were able to okay the “moutarde” in our salad. He demonstrated the more complicated parts of dining there—use of the grill, how to season the food, etc.

We have begun to cook at home more often. That has reduced the number of restaurant stories to tell but increased the number of grocery-shopping incidents in direct proportion. I’ll save that topic for another time. Our first home-cooked dinner (below) was grilled cheese sandwiches and wine. We've since made curry, different types of stir fries, and even a Zabar-style supper (olives, pecorino, ham, carrots, bread with garlic-infused olive oil to dip in, and, yes, wine).

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

First Posting (Aug. 18, 2010)

What to say? There have been so many experiences is our two weeks here. Overall this has been a confused, chaotic, and challenging new direction. We were met at the airport by Jessie (I call her Jessie no Guo to distinguish her from the other Jessie, Jessie Guo, who works for I.S.S. in their Shenzhen office. So, we came out of baggage claim at the Shenyang Airport with our backpacks and two checked bags each. Jessie no Gou, her friend, and the driver helped us load the bags into the van and then off we went. It was late--9:00 p.m. (the flight had been delayed a bit in Beijing) so we didn't see much. Night had fallen and all we could see was what the street lights and shop lights outside the van illuminated.

Even if we had full daylight, our minds were pretty fuzzy from the hours of travel. Seattle to Vancouver was about an hour and then we had another hour layover in Vancouver. The Vancouver to Beijing flight was 11 and half hours, plus another two hour layover in Beijing which stretched into two and a half hours. Finally, we had the hour flight from Beijing to Shenyang. So about 17 hours of travel combined with the time difference put our brains in a very strange place. That was the lens through which we saw Shenyang at first.

Some highlights: Three or four huge stadia/sports complexes that were built for the 2008 Olympics and which, according to Jessie no Guo, are not being used. She was not even sure what sports or activities the different structures were designed for. I know that some soccer games were played here. The driver thought that maybe some gymnastics and handball events were also held here.

We crossed the main river here. It's called the Hun He. He means river, I found out that Hun means mother. The river "gave birth" to Shenyang.

We drove through a very mysterious stretch of busy road that had a Nighttown feel to it. There were many people out and about. There were side of the road food vendors. The most popular street food in evidence was grilled skewers of different kinds of meat. There were also table groups of men both inside restaurants and outside by the vendors. The tables collect big green beer bottles as the night goes on. The wait staff don't clear the empties until the drinkers leave. It's easy to gauge how heavily the patrons have been hitting it just by glancing at the accumulation of bottles on their tables and even on the ground near by.

When we arrived at the school campus I noticed IV bags hanging from the branches of some trees. I wondered if there was some sort of strange sidewalk medical treatment going on. The next day I learned that they were really tree medicine. It doesn't seem to have worked; we have many dead trees which the workers later begin to cut down.
 The van pulled up to a building and we got out with our stuff. Jessie no Guo led us inside to apt. 112. We deposited our bags and looked around. Noise outside caught our attention. We went out and discovered John, Maggie, Kelly, and Justin and Holly all gathered in John and Maggie's apt. (#122). John, Maggie, and Kelly were familiar faces and it felt a bit more welcoming to have seen them. We knew we were at the right address at a minimum. We were so tired though that after a quick hello we went to our place and collapsed.

End of Day One